Education

Diving in head first into the world of fine jewelry is often daunting. Nine Roses jewelry is designed and crafted to last a lifetime, and we have given great thought to every aspect of our production process—from the big picture to the minutiae. It is our desire to make superior quality jewelry in the most sustainable way possible. We also want to make sure you understand the world of gemstones and precious metals, and feel comfortable with the selection process.

Metals

Sustainably & Ethically Sourced

We only use recycled metals when creating new jewelry. We work with United Precious Metal Refining, located in Alden, New York. UPMR is as committed as we are to sustainable and ethical jewelry practices, and maintains the following standards and certifications:

Responsible Jewelry Council: Code of Practices Certified
Responsible Minerals Initiative
RAMP Conflict-Free Compliant
SCS: Global Services Certified
COMEX Approved Gold Distinction

Longevity

Each Nine Roses piece is designed with a goldsmith’s approach to metalwork. We only work in 14k gold and above. We make pieces out of solid material—our jewelry is never hollow. Each piece is crafted by a true artisan and build to last.

Karat Breakdown

Solid gold is way too soft — and way too expensive — to use on its own for wearable pieces. Gold must be combined with other, harder metals in order to make something strong enough to wear.

Wearable gold pieces are measured in karats, which is determined by the amount of gold per 24 parts. For example, 18k gold is 18 parts gold out of a total of 24 parts. The other parts are made of other metals—predominantly nickel, copper, and zinc. Changing the percentages of the base metals is what creates different colors of gold (yellow, white, rose, brown, and green.)

14k · This is the American industry standard. It’s wonderful for heirloom jewelry—not as brittle as lower karats, not as delicate as higher. 14k gold also makes for a subtle, honey-colored hue.

18k · Our recommendation for engagement rings and bands, but not right for every client. It makes for a rich, maize-colored hue, but is still plenty strong, which is why we love it so much.

20k · The color of a gold nugget, but stronger than 22k gold. If you’re looking for a luxury material, 20k is what we recommend.

22k · Only recommended special designs that are not worn on an everyday basis.

Gold vs. Platinum

We love gold for all the options it affords, but platinum has its advantages. Platinum is a pure metal (not combined with anything), so it’s great for folks with nickel allergies and sensitive skin.

Platinum is also very hard-wearing, so if you work with your hands, or are generally very hard on your belongings, platinum is likely the way to go. It is also a luxury material, perfect for those who desire a higher carat white gold, but would prefer more resilience.

Why Not Sterling Silver?

We love sterling silver—and it absolutely has its place in the fine jewelry world—but it doesn’t serve as a good home for gemstone.

Silver is not a precious metal; it is flimsier, more malleable, and more susceptible to breakage and cracking than gold and platinum. Sterling silver is also trickier to repair, and certain structural necessities like prongs can be easily bent and broken during daily, making your stone vulnerable to falling out and getting lost.

Stones

Repurposed & GIA Certified Diamonds

We do our best to only source what we call “up-cycled” diamonds, which are stones that have been removed from discarded jewelry. Upon removal, these stones are inspected, re-cut, re-polished, and certified or re-certified by the GIA.

We prefer these stones for a number of reasons. Because they were mined long ago, a second life makes them both a carbon neutral and conflict-free option.

We believe repurposed diamonds are the most ethical stones you can get—yes, even more ethical than lab-grown diamonds, which require a ton of energy to create. On the occasion we cannot find a recycled option that meets our clients’ needs, we source directly from an importer whose stones strictly adhere to the Kimberley Process.

The 4 C’s

Diamonds are graded by the four C's: Cut, Color, Clarity, Carat. Below you'll find a brief overview, but we encourage you to visit our 4 Cs Page for more nuanced information.

Cut

The most important of the C’s, as cut most impacts a diamond’s sparkle.

Cut determines brightness, fire, and scintillation—aka sparkle and symmetry. The cut also gives a diamond its emotive and mesmerizing qualities. A cut that is either too deep or too shallow results in a lackluster diamond due to the fact that the light goes in and out at inopportune angles.

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Color

The GIA grading scale for white diamonds ranges from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow). Beyond light yellow, we get into what we call Fancy diamonds, which come in a rainbow of amazing colors.

Totally colorless diamonds are ultra rare, and thus very expensive. We prefer to use near colorless diamonds, because they look colorless to the naked eye while remaining comparatively affordable.

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Clarity

Because of a their natural creation process, tiny mineral deposits can sneak in between the carbon atoms that form a diamond, creating what are called "inclusions" or specks in the stone.

Clarity is rated from FL (flawless) to I3 (included). If a traditional white diamond is what you're after, we recommend VS2 and above, as any inclusions will only be visible under 10x magnification. The more visible inclusions, the lower the price.

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Carat

Carat is the diamond’s weight, and the higher the carat, the rarer the stone. Price per carat increases exponentially based on weight, so one carat of small diamonds is worth less than a single one carat diamond.

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Rustic Diamonds

Black, salt and pepper, grey, icy, and a myriad of other heavily included diamonds fall into the imperfect or "rustic" category.

Inclusions can be white (creating a frosty, cloud-like look), black (peppery and organic), or a range of other colors. The inclusion color is a result of the material that’s become embedded in the carbon during the diamond’s creation. For example, an orange rustic likely had some garnet stuck in it at the time of its formation. A salt and pepper diamond is the result of carbon that didn't crystalize.

Once regarded as undesirable, over the years this magical class of diamond has gained in popularity, particularly from folks who are seek a more unique alternative to traditional white diamonds. A bonus is that rustic diamonds are just as durable as their white counterparts, and because they are technically imperfect, they are less expensive per carat.

Sapphires

Sapphires are a great option for those wanting both a high quality and economical ring.

All gemstones are measured between 1 and 10 on the Mohs Hardness Scale. Diamonds are a 10/10 while Sapphires are a 9/10, making both suitable for daily wear.

Sapphires are less sparkly and more abundant than diamonds, making them less expensive. They also come in all the same cuts as well as a brilliant range of rich colors, making them great for those who want a center stone on a budget. We also love to use colored sapphires for side and accent stones.

Why Not Other Stones?

It is our opinion that stones softer than a sapphire are not fit for wedding jewelry. In reference to the Mohs Hardness Scale, we don’t recommend anything under an 8/10 for commitment jewelry.

Your wedding set is meant to be worn every single day for the rest of your life, so the materials should be sturdy, durable and strong. Stones like garnets, opals, quartz, and emeralds are beautiful but delicate, and will chip and crack over time if worn every day.

Ethics & Approach

Goldsmith Standards

Nick DeRosa approaches jewelry design from a goldsmith’s perspective. Even our most delicate pieces are substantial enough to be worn every day and over multiple lifetimes.

Each setting is designed for function first, and aesthetics second. We are of the mindset that because wedding jewelry is meant to be worn every day, it must be solid and strong.

Production

All of our jewelry is made by hand in the US, and our bench jewelers are competitively compensated according to their experience.

Our production team consists of twelve bench jewelers, each of whom possesses their own speciality skillset. Each ring is set by hand, with detailing like milgrain and engraving painstakingly crafted by hand.

Sourcing

We have established relationships with highly-regarded diamond importers and sourcers whose ethics and morals we trust.

We put human rights and environmental concerns ahead of all else, ensuring every piece of Nine Roses jewelry is conflict-free as well as beautiful.

Clients

We started Nine Roses because we wanted people to have a fun, pressure-free jewelry shopping experience. We’re here to give you solid advice, honest feedback, and—most of all—to make you the ring of your dreams. We won’t upsell you or rush you into a decision; we’d rather listen and help.

Warranty

We offer complimentary cleaning, stone tightening, QA inspections and safety checks for life on all pieces purchased or commissioned from Nine Roses.

We will alway fix manufacturing defects, and will also cover the cost of all repairs of Nine Roses pieces under normal wear for six months after purchase. Please note, after this 6 month period, we will repair your jewelry for a fee!

Jewelry Care

How should I care for my jewelry?

We’ve created a Jewelry Care 101 Guide to help you navigate the complexities of this question!